Out for a walk with Francesco
(The water is so pure, people steal it.)
May your trails be crooked, winding and difficult, leading to the most amazing view… This, more or less, was a quote from Edward Abbey, an American writer with a strong interest in the environment, who died in 1989.
With hindsight, I think that these words inspired Francesco Franceschi, a very skilled and well-known environmental guide, to propose special hikes to nature-loving walkers like me. I had already heard about him and when he published a walk in Liguria (although my blog talks about Tuscany), I decided to participate. We would have left from Santa Margherita Ligure to get to the abbey of San Fruttuoso passing through Portofino. A good opportunity to visit this tiny fishing village that has managed to become one of the most exclusive places in the world.
The day had started in the best possibile way. A light breeze from the sea ruffled our hair and we felt the sun’s rays gently caressing our skin. I don’t know about the others, but for me these are the conditions that relax and reassure me. In my mother tongue we say “let the soul swing”.
For Francesco, on the other hand, it was the first of many obstacles to be overcome because we had quite a tight schedule to follow. Those who thought they were taking two easy steps were totally wrong. No, it was not about running but we would definitely have to be quick paced. Our group included twenty, twenty-two people trying to find their way among residents and tourists. Here and there the guide stopped to share interesting news or to tell the story of the place. For me an opportunity to take pictures. I honestly thought that our walk would be along the beach, so I was surprised when Francesco chose “The Pedestrian Route to Portofino”, an uphill path. However, it was nothing much to worry about.
Along our way, we passed lavish villas of the past, literally glued on overhanging slopes. Astonishing was the sight of vegetable gardens attached to tiny pieces of land so steep as to wonder how reckless people manage to harvest what they had sown in spring. Looking towards the sea, glimpses of unforgettable beauty. Dark blue water with small boats thrown at random and the sparkling sun rays touching the waves were truly amazing.
In no time we reached Portofino. If I had to say that the village had particularly enchanted me, I would be a liar. Honestly, I don’t understand what is different from Santa Margherita Ligure, Paraggi, San Rocco or Camogli. For me they are all pearls knotted one by one to a necklace three hundred and thirty kilometres long, kilometre more, kilometre less.
Francesco had planned three quarters of an hour to discover the place. There were those who had stopped for a coffee, others who wanted to visit the castle, take pictures or simply stroll around discovering alleys and shops. It was very interesting to see the many writers, painters and people of the world remembered on a long wall. They all chose Portofino to live, get married, make films or even to die in this tiny little village.
Then, after nearly an hour, out of nowhere the abbey of San Fruttuoso suddenly appeared. The colour of the sea between dark blue and turquoise seemed artificially beautiful. Knowing that there could still be steep descents but no more dizzying ascents had given us courage and grit. In fact, we faced the last half hour chatting relieved.
The two beaches of the abbey can only be reached either by walking as we had done, or by boat, a vehicle used by almost all bathers. The place is lovely. The water is so crystalline that you can see the seabed and the atmosphere is relaxed, almost lazy. Those who were hungry ordered a tasty fish-based dish. Others enjoyed a nice coffee while watching the waves of the sea touch the rocks. No doubt, people here know how to make October Sundays very, very enjoyable. To top off all this beauty, Francesco, loyal to duty, reminded us that it was time to return to the place of departure, but this time on the boat. What a relief sitting instead of walking, enjoying the last sun rays and watching the boats on the sparkling sea.
In the end, Francesco’s path was reasonably crooked, winding and difficult, but not over the top and it actually led us to a breathtaking panorama that we will never forget.
Is Francesco’s next excursion scheduled in Lerici? I’m in. Definitely.
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